Basic Interlinking
A chain-link-fence structure with considerable stretch, interlinking provides a cloth with which many different patterns can be created. At rest the rows lie next to each other, but when stretched small holes appear and the chain link structure become visible.
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Interlinked sprang structure. Threads stay vertical, linking repeatedly around their two neighbors. Drawing by Carol James.
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Stripes
Depending on the arrangement of the threads, stripes can be horizontal, vertical, or diagonal.
 Varying the warp threads creates vertical stripes.
A variegated yarn can create horizontal stripes.
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Alternating colored warp threads can create diagonal stripes.
Stretched diagonal stripes showing chain-link-fence structure.
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Full Twists
Full twists can move threads sideways and create bigger holes. Strategically placed full twists can move threads to create the different stripes illustrated above. Multiple full twists were used to make lace bonnets in Bronze Age Scandinavia.
Relaxed cloth with full twists in every row.
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See the Lace Gallery for more photos of lace created with extra twists.
Lace
Strategic placement of holes can produce a large variety of designs.
The holes stretch more than the interlinked surroundings, creating lacy cloth.
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Interlinked sprang with holes created to form a diamond. Drawing by Carol James.
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See the Lace Gallery for a more examples of sprang lace.
Surface Texture
Using S and Z leaning threads
Changing the direction of the "stitches" creates textured patterns that can be used for surface designs. When S and Z directions are switched in the middle of the row along diagonals, raised sections create textured designs. When S and Z directions are changed along horizontal or vertical lines the cloth remains flat and the texture changes create linear patterns.
S and Z "stitches" that switch along diagonals create a basket weave 3D texture.
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S and Z "stitches" change along horizontal rows, creating bands of texture across the cloth.
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S and Z "stitches" change along vertical rows, creating a chevron texture.
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When S and Z twists are combined with alternating colors, they can change the slant of diagonal stripes.
Relaxed cloth with alternating colors and rows of S and Z twist.
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 Stretched cloth showing interlinking structure of S and Z twists.
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See the S&Z Gallery for photos of more S&Z patterns.
Twining
Contrasting threads can be twined on a background of interlinking to create a variety of patterns.
Pairs of contrasting threads twined on a background of interlinked sprang.
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A pair of threads twined diagonally on interlinked cloth. Drawing by Carol James.
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See the Twining Gallery for photos of more twining motifs.
Under 3 Interlinking
This variation on interlinked sprang carries each thread under three threads, creating a thicker fabric that retains the elasticity of basic interlinking.
Relaxed under 3 interlinking creates a more solid cloth with a steeper slope to the threads.
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Stretched under 3 interlinked fabric shows the interlinking structure with an extra crossing thread.
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Drawing of under 3 interlinking by Carol James.
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Transpositions
When the cloth is made in narrow widths it can be manipulated as tabs, similar to cables in knitting. My favorite is to create braids within the braided fabric.
Three strand braid in interlinked cloth.
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Five strand braid in interlinked cloth.
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See Transposition Gallery for more transpositions.